I am doing great! My daily life, is socializing with friendly people from other cruising boats, eating really good food seems like cruisers are great cooks, and playing games. Shortly, we are going ashore to hike the beach and trail on the island we set anchor to last night. We listen to the local net on the VHF radio to stay connected to the other cruisers in the area. We also connect to other boats that are underway via the single side band/ham radio. I am reading the Lord of the Rings. I am very comfortable and glad to relax. The islands we are in are like the San Juans, but with adorned with palm trees, white sand and beautiful blue water shorelines. The weather has been chilly the last few days. Rain and lightening swept through two days ago. Eric got a DVD player for his birthday. We watched “Brother Where Art Thou” the other day. I really enjoyed viewing that flick while it poured down rain outside. We had successfully traded for popcorn from another cruiser. We had slurped on cokes and 7-Ups and enjoyed watching the flick! Ah, the simple pleasures of cruising!!
I decided to join Moonshine for the ride South to New Zealand. She is a 40 foot Jon Meri built in 1981. The owners are Laura and Steve Ahearn from Maryland. Both are attorneys. They departed Maryland in June 2002 on this adventure. They went through the Panama Canal earlier this year. Moonshine is a very safe boat and very clean ... I think it’s the cleanest, neatest boat I have ever seen!! They just finished varnishing the trim in the cabin. They have a warm shower in the head and a water-maker aboard. Laura and Steve are thrilled to have me join them for the passage to Auckland. Several boats were trying to lure me to join them for the passage. I picked the boat that I wanted to sail and I the people I wanted to be with for the passage. I learned quite a bit about these sailors while we played games after dinner parties they hosted for us.
I hadn’t planned on learning scuba this year, but last Sunday I decided to enroll into a scuba class. I completed the scuba diving course yesterday. I am now a certified PADI diver. Whooohooo! My last test was to take my mask off my head at 14 meters depth. I put it back on and cleared the mask. When I opened my eyes, I saw Travis the instructor giving me the okay sign. I replied with the same. He then stuck his hand out to shake mine in order formerly congratulate me for becoming certified diver. I shook his hand and then he started to do the jig!! We both jigged for a few moments, then we high-fived each other. I was thrilled. I thought of Megan Martin, because she likes to the dig. Hey, Megan, I hope you are doing great.
During my last dive, Travis found a puff fish tucked in crevice. He gently tugged at its tail, it puffed up. Travis then gently encouraged the fish to turn around. Big eyes looked at us both. Travis encouraged it to swim out from the crevice; he cradled the fish up into open view. I think my eyes were as big as the fish! Calmed down and reduced its size to normal we waved goodbye and departed. That was fun to see!! Anyway, after my arrival back in Neiafu after my last dive, I celebrated my graduation at the local Tropicana Cafe ... by enjoying a nice cup of espresso and a cookie!! We celebrated more on the boat, too! I think I have conquered a few big fears of water that I developed after I had been fished out of a pool/lake when I was child; before I had learned how to swim I think I thought I knew how to breathe under water without scuba!!
I am nursing a cut on the top of my left foot. I found some coral to scrape my foot against while I was on my second confined water dive, near shore by the scuba shop. The cut is a minor one. The area surrounding the small wound has puffed up and is red. Fortunately, Eric and Angela are good friends with a cruiser who happens to be a doctor. He prescribed antibiotics and Eric and Angela have enough on board to treat me for a month. The boo-boo should clear up in three days. I am confident all will be well with the foot soon. Oh, and the same doctor also signed my medical release forms so I could enroll into the dive class.
We are still in Vava’u. That is the northern group of islands in Tonga. We are watching and waiting for weather window to head South to the middle group of islands, Ha’apai group. The prevailing wind is SE at 20. Most of the sailors are eager for fair wind sailing at the moment. I think we’ll get over that soon. A tropical depression is forming to the NE of us. We may leave tonight at midnight, for the 12 hour trip South: 60 miles or so, may be longer because we will be beating. The plan is to leave Nuku’alofa, the capitol, in Southern Tonga, October 31 or November 1. We want to arrive in Nuku’alofa around October 25th to prepare for passage and to prepare for a Halloween party. I have some spooky rings for the kids/adults here. We plan to dress up and have fun. I haven’t seen pumpkins. Perhaps we’ll find them in Nuku’alofa. I hope my friends at the pumpkin house are enjoying October and are marveling over the pumpkins they selected out the pumpkin patch in Nisqually Valley. Hi Scott, Leslie, Pete and Deb!
That’s it from me. The e-mail transmission speed is based upon the atmospheric conditions. The transmission speed has been really slow this week. Therefore, if you must send a reply, I politely request replies to be limited in length. I will imagine you all wish me well ... so if you have nothing more to say, that is quite fine to let me hold that vision you are thinking well of me as you read this email.
I send big hugs to my family and friends.
Peace, Judi
The following is my latest scoop!!
On Thursday October 23 I was snorkeling with Laura , skipper of Moonshine, my ride to Auckland, in the last anchorage of Vava’u, anchorage #16 Kulo Reef. I saw a sea turtle resting on the bottom, right below me, about 3 meters. The sea turtle was huge (of course, everything is about 25% bigger while looking through a mask) and it’s the first time I have seen a sea turtle!! I lifted my head to alert Laura about my turtle siting. When I looked back towards the sea turtle, I discovered it had disappeared. Rats! Nature doesn’t wait for observers! A few hours later, when we were relaxing on the boat , we spotted another sea turtle at the surface. Laura told me that I am attracting the sea turtles, because she had not seen them before and she had been that anchorage many times over the last 5 weeks. I was thrilled to see the turtles!
We arrived in the Ha’apai Islands yesterday morning after an overnight passage. The passage was fun except for a few minutes. Ha ha ha. I am not in the league of the “tough guts” sailors. “Tough guts” is the nick name for Rosie, who is aboard Micah Rose hailing from Juneau Alaska. Rosie is 7 years old. She hasn’t puked the whole trip from Juneau! The stars, sun rises/sets are fabulous without light noise. We haven’t seen the green flash at sun set/rise. I saw that once in the Sea of Cortez. I haven’t seen the Southern Cross yet. Clouds have been covering my view.
We spend the night at anchorage next to Uoleva Island 19 degrees 50 minutes South 174 degrees 25 minutes West. Yesterday afternoon, we walked along the beautiful mile long beach!! The snorkeling was fun, though the coral wasn’t colorful, though. We saw a huge lion fish resting in the reef. The clams are huge!! They are anchored to the coral mounds. On the beach, we talked to four people, we saw two of them 3 days ago in Neiafu Vava’u, who are staying at a resort on Northern tip of this beach. They are staying in little bungalows for $25 Tongan per night, that is 12.50 US dollars! No electricity, one kerosene lantern. Food service is optional, speciality is meals prepared with canned corned beef. One couple is vegetarian, so they are preparing their own meals. I suppose it’s not a 5 star hotel, but the beach is clean, empty and beautiful!!! There are horses available for riding. The couple that we saw in Vava’u flew from Neiafu to Lifuka Island, that is very close to the Uoleva island. I can see in the distance, towards the West, an island that is volcanic shaped, very steep, topping off at 1060 meters. I think it’s really beautiful here.
Today, we just weighed anchor at 0936 local time on Saturday 25October2003. We are headed for another beautiful anchorage at Ha’afeva Island. 19 degrees 56 minutes South 174 degrees 61 minutes West. We will sail during daylight hours today. It’s crazy-dangerous and next to impossible to find anchorage at night with all the reefs in this area. We talked with another cruiser and heard there are only 5 boats there now. Plenty of anchorage room. The cruising guide reports the neighboring island, Koro Island, is worth exploring, including a hike to the top of the dome for a 360 degree view. I’ll take my camera!
We plan to weigh anchor tomorrow night for an overnight passage to arrive in Nuku’alofa on Monday. We sail away from the islands to clear all reefs while we sail at night. This boat, Rouser, will begin provisioning for the big passage to Auckland. Their two new crew, Keith and Amy from Olympia, will arrive later in the week. I will switch boats mid week. I will be playing tourist and sleep in a hotel while in port. The new boat, Moonshine, the name refers to the planet not the booze, does not have e-mail connections aboard. Eric and Angela said they’d relay messages 1-2 sentences in length via their e-mail to update you on my progress. I will connect to jdstreet88@hotmail.com when I arrive in Auckland.
I hope to see Auckland a bit before I depart for Seattle. I have not made a airflight connection yet. I spent 2.5 hours with a travel agent in Neiafu the other day. We accomplished the task of cancelling my flight on November 4 from Nuku’alofa to LA via Air New Zealand. I discovered flights from Auckland may be cheaper if I purchase in Auckland. Right now it’s $2,000 NZD, about $1,260 USDollars. The time I spent with the travel agent was interesting. Periodically, she and I conversed over telephone to the agency owner in Nuku’alofa. In between the phone calls, we discussed the local news, world travel, prices in the USA. CDs here cost $100 Tongan, or $50 USdollars!!
We have not seen any breeching hump back whales. We continue to be optimistic. In the winter, the PNW summer time, the whales come up here in the South Pacific from the seas near Antarctica in the summer. The whales don’t eat up here, there’s little food. The whales birth and raise their young in these waters. I imagine it’s a fabulous site to see them breeching.
I continue to enjoy this cruising life. Eric and Angela do the hard parts ... making all the decisions about the variety of anchorage options, assessing the weather scenarios, itemizing the shopping needs, etc. I listen to absorb, but I am using my brain cells very lightly!! Occasionally, my watch reminds me of the date and time. I enjoy one/two cups of Batdorf Bronsons coffee daily. More coffee beans will be coming with the Olympian crew later next week. I ordered 1 pound, Moonshine ordered 2 pounds. We visit other cruisers aboard Rouser or other boats for meals.
I miss the PNW environment, slightly. Mostly, I miss hearing your friendly voices!
I hope all is well with everyone in the PNW!
Malo!
Siuti, Tongan translation for Judi
I am writing from Nuku’alofa, at the Friends Cafe. Great espresso and internet service here!
Yesterday was Sunday. Eric, Angela, and I went to church yesterday on Ha’afeva Island; population 200, 6 churches. One church is attended by a single family. Tonga has about 116,000 people. 10 % is in Vava’u and the Ha’apai Islands, there are traces of people, mostly poor economically. We walked through town, about 4/5 blocks on a one lane road. We doubled back and walked out on a nice short pier to see the other side of the island of where we were anchored. In the distance, about a mile offshore, was a pod of humpback whales breeching! Wow, what a treat!!!
We visited a family before church, because another cruising boat said they visited her the day before. We knew she needed a kitchen knife and we had one to give to her. Star is 29, married with three daughters. Her girls, including Agnes, gleefully escorted us to their church. I didn’t understand a word, but I the singing was fabulous. We could hear the singing from the other churches, too. After church we went to see their mother, Star. Angela gave the kids bracelets she purchased in Mexico. They loved them! Agnes got two; after she hid her right hand behind her back, the hand that already had a bracelet. Funny, kid!! Angela had note pads, crayons and fun shaped makers. All were a hit. We colored with the kids in Star’s kitchen. Her kitchen is a separate building, that includes a picnic table, bar, and adobe-like-stove/oven.
Star made lunch for us. I enjoyed the warm papaya cooked in coconut milk, I dabbled in the bread-fruit and tampicoa. I passed on the fish. Eric and Angela love the food. I was getting a bit distracted. Shall I dare say, kittens and piglets were underfoot?
The conversation was very good, Star spoke very good English. She took us to visit her parents out in the bush. They were out there enticing the wild chickens to re-group on their land. They were very kind and showed us their traditional Tongan house they were building. They also harvest 60 coconuts a day to feed the pigs that raise and then sell to the Nuku’alofa market. That’s four wheel barrel loads a day that they trek along a 1/4 mile trail. Star’s mother took the machete and whacked down 25 pounds of bananas. We were given spring onions, leafs like spinach, fruit that is similar to pear, pineapples, too. We drank fresh coconut milk she opened for us. Eric tried the technique and deemed that it takes strength to open the outer shell of the coconut. Star’s mother had no problem and giggled while she opened three in a matter two minutes.
We gave the Stars more goods, soy milk, “lollies” candy for the kids, yeast, fishing lures, lip balm, and little bit of cash to buy a gift for her new born due in 30 days. The experience of Star’s family was warm and peaceful. I hope they take good care of Star’s little 7 year old brother who has downs.
We weighed anchor at 1400 yesterday and sailed to Nuku’alofa all night. I finally saw the Southern Cross.
We are anchored next to town, inside the break water. Med-style. That’s anchor off the bow and the stern tied to the break water. A neighboring boat helped push us in with their skiff. A taxi driver tied the stern off. He was there to offer laundry services, $2 Tongan dollars per kilo. No transportation fees at all. Hot deals everywhere!!
I discovered 30 minutes ago that turtles represent good navigation. I have a carving hanging around my neck.
I hope for safe navigation to New Zealand; we may leave within the next 6-7 days. Please send well wishes ... to this email address so I can “sap it up” upon my arrival in New Zealand. The journey may be 8-10 days. We may stop at Minerva Reef, which is 266 miles from here. Strange to anchor in a reef that isn’t above surface out in the middle of .... no where!!
Oh, and I heard there are two freighters in the harbor taking on freight. The freight is pumpkins!! I hope to find one at the market and carve a jack-o-lantern. We are looking into going scuba diving within in the next two days!
Tikiti Boo: okee dokey!
Judi
Hi Everyone!
I understand it rained a lot recently in the PNW.... up to 5-7 inches in one day!! WHooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaa! That will flood the dingy!!
We looked for hotel rooms last night and discovered a sweet deal at a small hotel. Angela encourage me to ask to see the rooms. We went to the Interantional Dateline Hotel, first. We saw the deluxe room first: 173 Tongan, 85 US dollars, if I did my math correctly. It came with a pet spider. The bellhop tried to smash it ... the spider jumped!!! We laughed, but I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep there!! We saw the standard room ... not so nice. The supreme room, the in-between rate room; 132 Tongan dollars, was reasonable ... and no pets were visible! We skipped down the road ... well, we walked. We passed a Chinese Restaurant. It advertised rooms for $10 per night, that is $5 US dollars. Eric wanted to check it out. I refused.
We stopped at a great little guest house; talked to the Kiwi owners. They were all full. They gave us a tip on a nice hotel down the way towards the marina. When we arrived at the hotel, I saw the deluxe room. Nice. I was ready to reserve, but they didn’t have it vacant for the next four-five nights. The hotel manager showed me the executive suite. It’s fabulous! Four times the size of the deluxe and it’s only 25 more dollars per night. I am spending $180 Tongan per night. I will sleep there tonight through Friday night. I think Angela and Eric are going to be moving in with me!!Two big beds, two couches, TV, kitchenette, jacuzzi spa!! It’s located across from the marina, so it’s a great location. I think I’ll have a few cocktail parties, too!! FUn FUn FUN!!
This little town is about 70,000 people. Mitsubishis are everywhere. I have found jay walking is not easy! I am paying attention because it’s hard to anticipate these drivers. They drive on the wrong side of the road here. And the driver is in the other seat ... so it may help if I look at the driver as I cross, not the passenger! It takes practice to look to the other side to see if the driver is paying attention or is ignoring me because I am not a local.
That’s if for now!
Carve on, pumpkin carvers, carve on!
Tikiti Boo!
Judi
New Zealand
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 7:05 PM
Hello Everyone!
I am in Northern New Zealand, in Opua; North of Auckland. The passage took exactly 8 days. Now it’s shower time and off to dinner with 20 others who have recently made the same trip. New Zealand is BEAUTIFUL!!!!
I will type more later!!I don't have the right currency to buy time in the internet office.
The sailing trip was a fabulous !!
Tikiti Boo!
Judi
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 11:52 AM
Hey!
We grabbed a rental car in Opua and departed yesterday at 0730. Aboard is Eric, Angela, Joel and Annie. Joel and Annie are on a year long world travel tour. We found overnight accommodations in a hostel. Fantastic prices, $18 per person per night. It’s like we are at summer camp, except it’s like 40 degrees out this morning, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. The place has a spa, trampoline, kitchen, library, complete with puzzles and tiddly winks!!!
We saw the glow worms in a cave yesterday! Fabulous little creatures the have a blue light in their tails. The tour guide also introduced us to three long finned eels, “Elvis”, “Lisa Marie”, and “Precilla”. They are about 2 meters long each. I gathered the courage and I pet Elvis on his head. Fun! The cave tour was 200 meters long and well worth the visit. We arrived early so we had our own special tour before a bus was due to arrive.
It’s Annie’s birthday today! Fun Fun! I think she’s 22.
Eric and Angela are now proud owners of a van, Ford Econovan, 5 speed. It looks like a huge white bread box. Its nick name is Maxi-Pad: it’s big and it’s their new pad because they are going to be sleeping in it while they tour the South Island!! I helped them at the auto auction, www.turners.co.nz. This is a fun process to buy a car for cheap ... and it’s a fairly normal way to purchase a vehicle in NZ.
I lost my ring in the car last night after dinner; silly reason, but I put it on the wrong finger, it got stuck, I managed to pull it off the knuckle in desperation and the ring fell into the abyss between the front bucket seats!! We searched for an hour!! We couldn’t locate the ring!! I was distraught. I had purchased the ring to remind me of this trip. I just finished reading The Lord of the Rings where Frodo puts on the ring and he disappears. I take off the ring and the ring disappears!! We decided to give up the search and wait until morning when we had more light and tools to search for the ring.
This morning we borrowed a screw driver from the hostel management office and then unscrewed the bolts holding the center console. Sure enough the ring was there!!
We are heading to Auckland to play tourist. I am looking forward to seeing the big aquarium, Kellys, the maritime museum, and dinner at a great Thai restaurant we heard about.
I’d say adventure is woven into every minute of this trip, and I am loving it!!!
Cheers!
Judi
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 12:25 AM
Hey!
Today, I went aboard the NZL 40 to match race against the NZL 41. It was a three hour ride in 20 plus knot true winds. I got to steer for 5 minutes before the race. It was an awesome experience! We raced from red bouy 6 to red bouy 9, windward mark, twice around, no spinaker/jinaker due to high wind speeds. I got to grind to hoist sails and grind on the second windward leg. I had a grand time!!
We have connected with Evolution, 64 footer that sailed from Fiji to New Zealand in 5.5 days!!. They are moored a few slips away from the NZL boats. We have parked the rental car for free on the dock with their dock pass. Tonight, we are staying up late to watch the rugby game tonight; it’s being aired on the big screen that is located on the dock. Austrailia vs New Zealand ... so the dock will be packed, I imagine.
We toured the Maritime Museum, too. Very nice. Tomorrow morning we are going to the gym to swim. Hopefully, I’ll be all tuckered out by the time I board the airplane tomorrow afternoon at 14:30 to assist me into a nice long sleep.
I’ll see most of you very soon!!
Cheers!
Judi