The intrepid crew of three, Skipper Mark Johnson, First Mate Melissa Vogrin, and Chief Engineer Harald 'Hal' Zerjock, left Percival landing at 1800 on a sunny Friday, the thirtieth of August. With no wind we motored our way out of Budd Inlet, down Dana Passage, round Johnson Point, and pulled in for the night at Zittle' s Marina on Baird Cove.
After spending a rather bumpy night (caused by the numerous tugs heading to Olympia for Harbor Days) tied to the dock, we departed Zittle's with fresh fuel. Again, not much wind to speak of, but another sunny day. We made our way past Devil's Head (graveyard of the South Sound, so named for the numerous early ship wrecks), past Amsterdam Bay, Anderson Island, Eagle Island which was teaming with seals on the beach, McNeil Island which was teaming with prisoners out in the yard, past Fox Island and through the sometimes treacherous Tacoma Narrows. We had timed it so that we would be gaining on at outward bound tide. The Narrows can be next to impassable if you get caught bucking the tide.
Onward we sailed past Point Defiance, which was teaming with anglers looking for salmon, across to Quartermaster Harbor, Vashon/Maury Island, where we tied up to the county dock in the town of Dockton (lovely facility if you haven't been). We opted for the public dock rather than Quartermaster Harbor Yacht Club further up the bay, because my mother lives a short distance from the public moorage. We had a hardy meal at mom's on Maury and picked up some more fresh provisions.
The next day we shoved off at 0700 to get an early start to a long day. Again, not much wind, but thankfully still sunny. Out of Quartermaster Harbor we motored dodging some early morning salmon seekers. Soon Alki Point was. at our beam and Seattle, the Emerald City, loomed off in the distance across Elliot Bay. North bound we continued, past Edmonds, Mukilteo, into the shadow of Whidbey Island we motored. Clinton landing was now off our port as we waved to the ferry passengers.
Round Sandy Point and into Langley Harbor we went. As we ducked around the piling breakwater we came to a screeching halt finding the marina chocked full. With no room at the inn we anchored about 200 yards from the entrance in a nice gravel bottom. Langley is a wonderful, artsy, boutirluey (new word) kinda place. When in town be sure and make a stop at the Dog House Tavern, oldest on Whidbey Island, home of the 10 cent schooner.
After a restful night on the hook we departed at 0800, again a sunny not much wind kind of day. It was Monday, Labor Day and all the boaters were on their way home. We were like the proverbial salmon swimming up-stream. I have never experienced so much boat chop in all my life. The closer we got to Deception Pass the more intense the traffic got, and everyone seemed to be in a hurry to get home. Finally we made the right turn before the pass and headed down the narrow, and I mean narrow, channel to lovely La Conner.
The channel or Swinomish Slough takes you winding through some beautiful rock cliffs with huge mansions perched on top. Just before you get to the town you pass under reportedly the most photographed bridge in Washington. It is quite spectacular, gracefully spanning the channel. When docking in La Conner the often strong current plays a major factor. When possible always head into the current. We watched a 30 foot sailboat do otherwise and they found themselves plowing into a moored dink. La Conner was most enjoyable. Lots of antiques, be sure and visit Nasty Jacks. We had dinner at the new La Conner Brewery and pizza parlor, delicious. Our weather turned moist as showers started falling. I learned that an old wood boat can sometimes leak.
The next morning the skies cleared and we shoved off for Friday Harbor, San Juan Island. When leaving La Conner, always check the direction of the current or you may have a long haul. The wind decided to show itself so we raised eight of the nine sails and had a delightful cruise across Rosario Strait, where we passed the schooner Sophia Christina out of Anacortes. We sailed passed James Island State Park, Decatur Island, Blakely Island, Lopez, Orcas, Shaw, etc. ....boy the San Juans are beautiful! Into Friday Harbor we sailed at 1600. We dropped sail and motored to the fuel dock to top off.
Then we putted to the San Juan Island Yacht Club guest moorage. Not too big. Boats were rafted three deep. We disembarked for a walking tour of the city, which is of good size, probably a little smaller than Olympia, and serves as the county seat. Stopped for a beer at the San Juan Island Brewery. The rains came and went all night.
The next day we shoved off at 1100 and motored toward Port Townsend. Across the Strait of Juan de
Fuca into a 15 knot head wind out of the South we plowed. It was a clear day as we passed Smith
Island.
Just as we were approaching Point Wilson, 5 miles out of Port Townsend, we had an
encounter with some rather large sea life, Orcas. Three or four, it appeared to be a cow and her calves.
They decided they would buzz the boat. I kept thinking, please don't hit the boat. What a magnificent
sight. They were no more than 10 feet from us.
After our hearts stopped racing we continued on to the Point Hudson Marina where we were greeted by dozens of beautiful wooden boats. We got our mooring assignment from the harbor master and tied up for the night. The next morning the place was crawling with wooden boat enthusiasts. There seemed to be a steady stream of visitors asking all sorts of questions.
Saturday was the Schooner Race, so I drafted several passerbys to serve as crew. There was about 15 boats entered and unfortunately there was little if any wind, with an unfavorable tide. We started 200 yards from the line only to be sucked backward. After the time expired on the race we decided to return to our mooring.
Out into the town we went for the evening. Port Townsend is a great place to visit by water. Everything is within walking distance. The city seems to be frozen in an 1890 era. Sunday brought sun and even more visitors. At 1500 the Grand Regatta 'sail by' started and by golly there was wind. A healthy 10 knot breeze out of the North. It was a challenge maneuvering around and through all the participants and spectators, Sol~Lys isn't the most nimble boat afloat.
After the sail by we just kept heading South, destination Kingston. In we pulled at 1900. Spent the night and were up early for the final push back to 01y. The weather was improving the father South we sailed. Passed Bainbridge Island, Blake Island, down Colvos Passage, passed Vashon Island, Gig Harbor, again through the Tacoma Narrows, into the ever familiar South Sound We landed at Percival Landing at 1600 on Monday. A perfect end to an exciting trip to the San Juans and the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
Mark Johnson, Sol~Lys