Victoria, a vibrant, cosmopolitan city; a study in contrasts as old English charm mixes with contemporary world. You immediately feel the rhythm and the beat of this energizing Garden City of Canada. It buzzes with activity and the year-round mild climate in conducive to sight-seeing.

If you arrive from the States you must clear Customs in Victoria before docking. Docking at the government's Causeway Floats is a great place to be –a front seat on all the action and the action is plentiful. Be prepared to have other boats rafted to yours during busy summer season.

Whether by sea or air this city is very accessible. With daily ferries and high-speed catamarans and to mainland British Columbia and Washington State, the Victoria International Airport only half an hour from downtown, this is one port your guests can arrive or depart with ease. And there are those marvelous ubiquitous float planes that journey almost anywhere, anytime.

Stroll Government Street, overlooking the Causeway Floats, for a great panoramic view of the harbor. It is an audible and visual feast. Float planes, ferries, quaint water taxies, whale watching craft and private boats form the backdrop as musicians, mimes and lively dancers entertain the audience on the waterfront promenade. In mid-summer the sidewalk teems with tourists snapping photos of the scenery and each other.

Just the other side of Government Street, where late model cars share space with horse-drawn carriages and red, double-decker sight-seeing busses, stands the regal Empress Hotel. While the hotel is renowned for its elegant Afternoon High Tea, you might opt to exchange the scones-crumpets-tarts and silver-tea-service of late afternoon for lunch in the Kipling room on the lower level. Whether you choose the buffet or order from Kipling's menu you will definitely enjoy and relax. Be sure to explore the hotel shops.

The Royal British Columbia Museum, with its unique and beautifully presented exhibits, is a short walk from the Empress. Plan to add a fantastic experience in their IMAX Theater. Suggestion: You may want to visit these fascinating places of discovery before lunch - a great way to build up an appetite.

Wander down Government Street, past book sellers, restaurants and gift shops to Bastion Square. Every boater should visit the Maritime Museum, housed in Victoria's first court house. Afterwards, meander leisurely through the arts and crafts booths in the Square flanking the museum. There's something for everyone.

Caution: on the way to Bastion Square you'll approach Murchie's Tea and Coffee Ltd. Enter at your own risk. This bustling shop is best described in two words: taste sensations. You will be tempted by glorious quiches, scrumptious lasagnas, tantalizing sandwiches, and irresistible pastries. Try one of each. The food is exquisite. Here's a tip: bring a variety back to the boat. Eat and rejoice. Once you've tasted a Murchie's Opera Slice, you may decide to stay in Victoria another day. It's that good.

Prepare yourself for more things to see and do than time in which to do them. Victoria is one of the ports you'll put on the must return list.

• Those colorful entertainers who perform in public places for donations are called buskers.
• The folks who manage the docks and wharves are wharfingers.
• There are 762 restaurants in Greater Victoria.
• Canada comes from the Iroquois word Kanata, meaning village or settlement.
• Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel and Marina in the inner harbour is the only marina in Victoria that accepts docking reservations.
• Each summer 950 lampposts in downtown Victoria are adorned with flower baskets.

e. b. kowal